Constructing a tape-measure-beam for 2 meter (144-148 MHz) hunts, using 1/2" PVC rev 2021.11.01.A by N0ZYC materials: 2x 1/2" PVC CROSS 1x 1/2" PVC T 5ft stick of 1/2" PVC 2x SAE #10 hose clamp (fit around outside of T) 5in of solid wire, covered #18 works well (solid #10, #12, #14 are TOO THICK) black electrical tape 6ft of coax with a connector for your radio (RG174 recommended) ceramic choke (harvest from round bulge around a junk USB cable) cheap compact retracting tape measure, 10ft or longer, 1" width (do not use 3/4") for parts tools (required): scissors soldering iron, solder wire cutters/strippers pipe cutter, hacksaw, or saw (to cut PVC pipe) pipe cuter will end up working better small piece of sandpaper or a hand file tools (recommended): 9in of velcro hook and loop, 3/4 or 1" wide dremel with metal cutoff wheel safety orange spraypaint or tape small roll of double-sided foam tape The tape measure will be disassembled and the tape itself will be getting cut up to use, so either find one you can destroy, or buy a new one ($3-4 usually) - make sure you get a 1in tape, not a thinner 3/4in tape. Coax with an end on it is probably the one part you won't be able to find easily. The simplest way to find what you need is to find a jumper coax that's either the lenth you need, or twice the lenth, that has the end on it your radio needs. (BNC or SMA usually, MALE) If you find a cable that's twice what you need, with the right connector on both ends, you can just cut it in the middle and have TWO of the cable you need. I strongly recommend you get the thinner RG-174 coax. Only use the thicker RG-58 if you have no choie. do: (refer to pictures as needed) - cut off one 7in, one 11.5in, and one 3ft piece of 1/2" PVC - cut off four lengths of tape measure, 35+1/8in, 41+3/8in, and two 17+3/4in (uses about 9ft of tape) - sand off the paint from the underside of the 17in tapes between where you trimmed the corners - cut off six pieces of the soft loop velcro, 1in long each. Attach them to the TOP side of one end of the two 17in tapes where you didn't sand, and to both ends of the other two tapes. - cut off three pieces of the hard hook velcro 3in long each - cut the corners on all tape elements to remove the sharp edges. use a file to smooth the edges. - assemble the PVC in this order: T to 11.5in to cross to 7in to cross to 3ft. press snug but don't force them tight yet - mark the back of the two long tapes in the exact center - use electrical tape to attach the 35in tape to the T - try to keep it square with the length of PVC, the marked center of the tape should be along the center of the PVC - if you have foam tape, attach two layers of it to the T at the 3ft setion this will help stop the tape on that end from bending as it passes the T - use electrical tape to attach the 41in tape to the T on the foam - try to keep it square with the length of PVC, the marked center of the tape should be along the center of the PVC - verify both tapes are parallel, adjust pipes at T and cross if needed - use the hose clamps to lightly hold the two 17in pieces of tape measure to the cente cross, on the end you sanded - verify all tapes are parallel both along pipe and on side, adjust pipes at T and cross if needed - compress down pipes into fittings until they stop moving. if you used a pipe cutter, the bulge it creates on the pipe at the end should hold the sections together pretty well. Otherwise you might need to disassemble and secure them with PVC cement - cut and strip coax, prepare the last 1in of the cable for attaching - cut a 5" length of wire for the hairpin match - use the soldering iron to tin the sanded ends of the tapes. its ok if it melts the PVC a little, this will help keep them in the correct position during use - solder down the hairpin wire down to connect the two short tapes - slide the ceramic choke onto the coax before soldering it - solder down the coax to the short tapes - give the PVC T a minute to cool if necessary - again verify tapes are all parallel and hose clamps are in the correct position - tighten hose clamps as much as possible - if you have a dremel, cut off the spare tape off the hose clamps and sand/grind anything sharp - attach the three hook velcro strips to the crosses and T on the side opposite the hairpin - fold all elements in and verify attachment to the velcro for storage and transport - slide the choke up by the hairpin and secure with electrical tape - wind electrical tape around the coax at the start of the 3ft pipe, for about 3-4in of coverage as a strain relief to protect the soldered end. leave a little slack between the wind and the choke - you can also use velcro to create a holder for coiled up coax. Release the tapes from the velcro to extend them for use. When waving the antenna around to find the best signal, hold the antenna out straight away from your body, parallel with the ground, with the tapes going left and right. Keep a constant distance from the ground as you move - this is especially important when you're in rugged terrain. If you need more sensitivity, you can turn the antenna so the tapes are up and down, which will probably do better if it matches the polarity of the fox. But this makes getting closer to the ground as you turn easier, which can produce a huge change in signal strength. Ask others to stay behind you while you're turning the antenna, both to avoid running into them and to prevent their bodies from affecting the signal. If someone else is operating the radio / attenuator, make sure the coax isn't being jerked on or you might damage the soldering or the connetor on the radio.