Before I start, I'd like to applaud your continued sale and development of new foxhunt projects. You really do have some of the best gear, at very reasonable prices. - I've got four of your piccons (kits), I bought 1 (without case), then bought 3 more plus a case for my first. I had to nibble the plastic away from the DIN port on both sides to get it to fit, you probably changed the board design slightly. Just thought I'd mention that. - a few times I've had to reset a piccon because it lost the ability to save changes to tones or times. It seemed to act normally but the changes just didn't save. other DTMF commands like START and STOP worked fine so it wasn't locked. They worked fine after being reset. I have no idea what caused them to get stubborn. Just an FYI. - is there a way to COMPLETELY stop a piccon? I was thinking 1 was "RUN", and 2 was "toggle RUN" (instead of toggle ANNOUNCE) The problem I have is while I can remotely turn ON a fox, I can't remotely turn it OFF. (make it go into STANDBY mode, not resume transmissions until I send another START) Or is there some other way to remotely turn it off or that I've misread the instructions? - I've had a piccon get reset a few times because the reset button pokes out of the box and it got bumped (I wasn't securing things well inside the fox enclosure) I have since cut a small length of 8ga wire jacket, fit around the button, and taped down, to prevent it from being pressed. It would be an improvement if the button didn't extend out the case (use a paperclip to press, like 99.9% of other devices do) or extend a ridge lip around the button on the case. - the hardest thing to deal with when I build a fox is obtaining the 4 pin mic plug used commonly by HTs. I know you sell cables, but they are for specific radios, and when I change a radio I need a new cable and can't easily modify the one I have. Suggest selling the 4 pin plugs, either with a 6" length of mic cable attached, or even just one with solderable connections. I've been salvaging cords from bad mics and earbuds, and stripping those wires is seriously tricky, the INSULATION on those wires is 0.5 mm OD! - suggest adding an on/off switch to the MT-15, like is on the MT-15S. I've also had to tighten the SMA on my MT-15 several times. Haven't managed to twist it off the board yet, thankfully. Not sure if there's anything you can do about that. - I see you have an offset ("active") attenuator for sale now. STRONGLY RECOMMEND including a 2mhz offset option. I have a small "fleet" of HTX-202's for foxhunting, and they don't tune out of band, so there are freqs in 2m that I can't use a 4mhz offset on. It should just be a different xtal to use, and I've swapped some before, but they're expensive to buy individually. - also to do with the active attenuators, I've ran into a problem with them where they greatly reduce sensitivity. Normally that's good when you're close, but there's this "donut" around the fox where when I get close enough I get full scale in any direction (or a wide direction) with my beam, but when I switch to OA, I can't hear the fox at all. I've tried doing some development to produce a better mixer, but I'm not very good with RF design and haven't come up with a way to improve the designs I've found. (mostly value changes, trying different diodes like schottjy or pin, etc) One local suggested not to use a dioode mixer but instead use a double balanced mixer, so I got a few to play with, but again it's not my area of expertise and I haven't come up with any breakthroughs. Maybe this is something you could look into? I may be getting one of your OA's to test and see if it also has the "donut problem" - I don't see a posted schematic so I can't compare your design against the two variations I've found online to see if it's someting new that might work better than what I've already seen. - consider an option to sell the OA with a box. I've had great success here with using small extruded aluminum boxes that have flat sheet ends. They're easy to hole for a BNC bulkhead connector, and are rigid enough to just attach right on the end of the radio. (bnc anyway, maybe not such a good idea for sma!) I use a M-M bnc coupler on the bottom end so it connects directly to the 202, and on the other end either a whip for sniffing or rg174 feeding the tape measure beam. The other option of course is to hard mount the OA to the beam and 174 to the radio, so again think of some option for mounting on a tape beam in addition to your inline SMA connectors. A great bundle would be a board design that would fit well on top of (or inside!) one of those PVC "junction boxes", plus a 3ft and a 6ft section of 174 with a bnc (or sma) on the end of the 6ft t go to the radio and 3ft leading to the feed on the tape. That would make installation MUCH easier for the average user. This could be simplified by including just a 9ft 174 with a bnc on one end and sma on the other, much more "universal". Crimping BNC (and esp SMA) is intimidating for new hams and probably costs you sales. - that DTMF remote looks very useful! Could you modify the piccon so it uses a few of the unused pins on the din-9 that can be toggled? One other suggestion I have is an INPUT pin on the DIN, so when a hunter finds a fox they can press the I FOUND YOU button on the fox and trigger it to transmit a different message indicating it has been touched by a hunter. I would also suggest a DELAY option for that function, either configurable or say 5 minute. That way when the fox announces it has been found, the huntmaster can ask who found it, and the hunter can clam the find, but other hunters in the area can't just look around and spot a hunter reaching into a bush. (pressing the button) This gives a hunter time to get away from the fox before it identifies, while being able to "prove" they did indeed find the fox. thanks again for the innovation! it's great to see something new every time I go to your website!