PowerPole Distribution Housing
Assembly Instructions, revision 2
2017.05.21 N0ZYC


1: Start with just the feed and far output.  Use #12 solid copper.  Cut two lengths of exactly 78mm.
   You should be able to bend it such that the long run stays parallel to the enclosure, and drops
   directly down into the output.

2: Test for fit. Adjust until both connectors seat perfectly with no strain.  See closeup of bus
   line, notice the contacts are reversed.

3: See image of installed feed.

4: Install a contact on one end of wire and insert into another housing pair.  bend so it JUST touches
   the bus line, and runs parallel for a few millimeters.  I cut mine where the divider ends.  These
   shorter copper stubs measure 28mm each, you will need a total of six bent the same.

5: Remove and make two more for a total of three.  They will all fit the same so you can use the
   center open slot for easier access while measuring and cutting.

6: Install all three outputs.  Double check they fit exactly and are all flush and equal on the
   front.  Make sure the first output and the feed have not moved.  Don't snap the shells together
   to test the fit, you may damage the clamps when trying to disassemble.

7: Gap-solder the top outputs to the top bus.  Try to get a good flow all the way to the underside
   of the gap, without bulging downward toward the other bus line.  If you want to shore it up
   mechanically, hold off on that for now, there will be a better time to do that later.

8: Remove, flip, and reinstall the assembly into the other shell half.  While it's out, inspect your
   brige soldering underside.  If you need to retouch something, you may want to reinstall it as
    it was before retouching, as we are still getting things mechanically aligned.  Be careful
    when removing the assembly, use a small flatblade to pry each housing up at most 1mm at a time
    before moving on to the next one.  Round-robin them until it comes out.

9: Gap-solder the other side.  Same as you did the first one.  Again make sure you get a good flow
   and good solder adhesion (no cold soldering) with the copper wire.

If you want to shore up the mechanical connection of the gap soldering, now is the time to do it.
Carefully remove the assembly again and tightly wrap each connection with bare #22 solid wire,
4-6 turns each.  After wrapping, re-install into the shell and flow generous solder into the wrap.
Make sure you are melting the gapped solder thoroughly.  Watch for drips.  Remove the assembly and
install back in the other half, and solder the other bus connections the same way.  You are using
the shell as a jig to hold the housings exactly where they have to be while soldering, I don't
recommend trying to do any output shoring or retouching without having the assembly installed into
one of the shells.  If a housing gets out of alignment, final assembly of the two halves will be
somewhere between difficult and impossible, and will probably lead to a solder failure due to
strain on a connection somewhere.

10: Drill a 3/16" hole in the feed end.  Make sure you stay clear of the attachment post, so you
    can lead wires directly away without dodging around the post.


11: Use an x-acto knife to SLOWLY hone out the hole until you can just manage to press fit in
    a 5MM led.  You can either get it to press in securely, or if it's loose you can use epoxy
    later to secure it. (or to just make it more robust after a press fit)  Suggest angling the
    leads laterally instead of vertically, for easier access while soldering.  You may also want
    to cut and tin the leads prior to installation.  I selected an LED with a clear housing that
    glows orange.  The housing starting clear makes for a much more noticeable indicator than say
    a dark green shell that turns bright green when lit.  If your LED has a water-clear body and
    tends to shine forward like a flashlight, you can use a brillo pad or fine sandpaper to rough
    up the shell of the LED to make it much more visible from all angles, that's what I did with
    mine here.

12: Run two #22 solid (shielded) wires to the opposite end and solder them.  I attached there for
    better soldering access than the near end, and to lower the risk of melting the solder on
    one of the feeds.  Insert an appropriate current-limiting resistor for the LED.  My LED needed
    3.3k for a good brightness and about 3.5mA of draw.  Not enough to worry about discharging a
    battery with.

The designer of the shell has retooled his process and the newer shells now come with a meter
(you have to install) as well as having changed the pop-in plastic connection with a regular
nut-and-bolt solution.