Several people on the net recently bought those Stingray "plastic" semis,
myself included.  Overall opinion: you get a little more than you pay for,
but not much.  Still a good gun for the price.  Also, after receiving the
manual, I looked and it includes prices for *ALL* replacement parts --
you can put the gun together from scratch and pay only $70!!!  (that's
not including a CA tank or 12g quick-change, which costs like $20 in parts)
Too bad I found this out *after* I paid $150.... :-(

To those of you who already had, or just got the semis, you'll notice an
incredibly loooong trigger pull.  A drill and two screws can easily correct
this.

Select a small sheet-metal screw about 1" long.  You need to drill a hole
behind the trigger, in that little shelf before the grip starts.  Drill
the hole just a bit off the middle, towards the grip.  Go through the
plastic and the sear plate, but DON'T DRILL THE SEAR.  Take it out if
necessary before drilling.  If you have a tap, then tap the sear plate
and put the screw in.  Be sure to elevate the sear before puting the
screw in.  If you don't have a tap set, just remove the sear and drill
the sear plate one size larger, and carefully but forcefully tighten
the screw in (from the bottom, of course) to tap the plastic.  The
plastic is quite thick and strong, and that is how I did mine.

Tighten the screw in farther to raise the sear.  The farther the sear
is raised, the less it catches on the hammer, and thus the shorter
the trigger has to go (forcefully) to trigger the action.  The trigger
still has to be moved forward initially, though, so I made a second
modification.

While you have the hand-grip section off, get a *long* 7/64" bit and
drill a hole thru the plastic "slot" in front of the safety, where the
trigger spring rests.  Drill from the front of the hand-grip towards the
trigger, about 1/4" below where the slot begins.  Find a sheet metal
screw that is a good inch or so long that you can self-tap into the
plastic.  Once you have tapped it in, tighten in the screw.  The farther
the screw goes in, the more it spots the trigger forward.  Be sure to
lift the trigger before tightening, or you may press into the plastic
on the trigger.  The back of the trigger needs to rest at about a
95 degree angle with the underside of the hand grip, because it will
lock with the sear at about 90 degrees.  NOTE: the safety WILL NOT
ENGAGE with this modification. If you want, you can remove the safety
pin and grind it down on a lathe until it is far enough down to catch
the trigger again.  This modification does not work without the first
modification.


A third mod you can do to finish off the trigger is a back stop.  Drill
a larger hole (about 1/2" or so) into the back of the grip where the
web of your first finger/thumb rests.  You are drilling towards the back
side of the trigger.  Once you have that hole made, get a small, long
drill bit that will drill a hole you can tap a long sheet metal screw
into.  I recommend finding a phillips head sheet metal screw for reasons
that will become obvious later.  Lower the bit into the larger hole and
drill a second hole through to the trigger. (be careful not to hit the
trigger!)  You want the hole about 1/4" above the bottom of the trigger.
Now tap the screw into the hole.  (this is not easy, mainly because you
cannot really HOLD the screw while you do this - a needle-nose pliers
helps to grip it from underneith)  You want to turn this screw in far
enough that the stingray just manages to fire before it reaches the
screw. (with maybe 1/16" to spare)  This modification can be done
separate of the others.

With all three modifications, your stingray can have a total trigger
movement of about 1/8".  You may have to back out the first two screws
a tad to improve reliability though. (it may cycle if the first mod is
turned in too far)  A most reliable stingray will have a total movement
of between 1/4" and 1/8".


Happy hunting!