[file start] ============================================================================== VECTOR FAQ Revision 4.0 98/01/25 Maintained by: Nathan Fisher Virtual1@pitnet.net updates since v3.12 (97/04/17) marked with *=* ============================================================================== ============== DESIGN GOALS ============== Quoting Air Power: - It has to be Accurate. Consistently accurate. Firearms accurate. - It has to mimic a Military MP5 style assault rifle. - It has to be balanced - It has to break down without any tools for "normal" cleaning. - It has to withstand 1800psi and a completely liquid system. ================ STOCK FEATURES ================ One of the Vector's greatest strengths is that it is already 'tricked out' right out of the box Here is all you get without paying the man at the shop a penny more: - 4 way valve (full pneumatic firing and recocking) - 100 psi regulated action (recocks until tank pressure falls below about 120 psi, but velocity will drop below 300fps at ~450psi) *=* - anti-chop bolt (95% effective against chops) - quick-release barrel - velocity adjustment - ball detent - raised site rail - 1/16" trigger pull - wide trigger, with rounded front edging *=* - safety - zero problems with liquid (though it is a gas hog if run siphon) - rate of fire outruns a shredder - open bolt design ============= GOOD POINTS ============= - accuracy: best accuracy for any semi - Vectors with stock barrels have won the 5-man and 10-man target shoots at several American Opens (that's four in a row, and counting...) - stability: the gun barely twitches when you pull the trigger - eats liquid or gas CO2, and nitrogen (nitro requires a regulator, of course) - trigger pull is 1/16", (really!) and clicks when you pull (no grind) - rate of fire is amazing: it will outrun any motorized hopper. - 4-way prevents "short stroking" (gun both fires AND recocks when trigger is pulled; no waiting for trigger to be released) - anti-pinch is about 95% effective in preventing ball-chops - reliability: it cocks itself, (no bolt pin to pull) and since it uses 100psi regulated action, will continue to recock long after your tank is "empty". - precision construction -- it's hard to find the seams! - the barrel releases at the press of a button, which completely exposes the bolt for cleaning. (the bolt can also be removed from the Vector without tools) - stock barrel is very well polished, and quite accurate - very short -- most of the action and pneumatics are below the barrel, rather than behind it, which makes for a fairly short gun, considering its 13" stock barrel - stock vel adj can get you proper velocity even into cold weather - works with very low pressure. (you CAN play in cold weather! really!) AP claims the gun will cycle (although not shoot very far...) at _80_ psi. If you're running out of air, your opponants can't tell unless they see the balls dropping. (no more "VM-68 crying for death" sounds) - gas efficiency (summer) is estimated at 50 shots/oz. giving 350/7 450/9 600/12 1000/20 (these are AP's numbers - I get more like 65 shots/oz) *=* - shortest trigger pull in the industry (I'm told there is a mod for the mag that is shorter, but as I understand, so modified guns have a nasty habbit of shooting by themsleves while you're running...) =============== QUESTIONABLES =============== - great stability does not agitate the hopper; needs a VL-2000 badly - if the anti-pinch is tripped, you must reset it (takes only a quarter- second, but some people want paint NOW regaurdless if it means chops) But, if you really *want* to void the anti-chop, just sharpen the curves of the bolt, or put a heavier spring (or shim) in the built-in regulator. *=* ============ BAD POINTS ============ - very loud. silencer does not help too much. The loud sound appears to be due to the fast-opening design of the valve, and cannot easily be muffled. consider it an "intimidation factor" - tank must be removed to adjust velocity (a regulator overcomes this) - the gun may fire once when you put on the tank, even with safety on. (this is documented in the manual) Put your hopper on AFTER your CO2, and a barrel plug while gassing up is _always_ a good idea, for any gun. (placing the safety OFF when gassing up seems to avoid this problem) - all-aluminum body seems a target for stripped threads. (caution is given several places in the manual against over-tightening) Use common sense when assembling - the Adapter Body has two very very thin o-rings that seal it in, which are very easy to slice when removing to oil. Recommend ordering a few spares. The only time you'll need to remove it is if the cup seal is needing replacement. (every couple years) - almost every pin and screw is untreated steel -- oil them often, or the rust monster cometh! - heavy - 3 1/3 lbs without tank or paint ================== PASSED THE TESTS ================== These are a few things that AP, myself, or someone else has done to their Vector, (accidentally or on purpose) and what happened to their gun: (don't try these unless you own a Vector) - paint in the airway... so much paint it was oozing out the 4-way's vents. = Result: lots of paint in the barrel of course, but still firing away. - finger in the chamber when the gun was fired. = Result: anti-pinch was 'tripped', owner kept his finger - low pressure line hooked to gun instead of high pressure CO2 = Result: Vector continued to cycle properly at pressures as low as 80 psi (not sure on this, mine needs more pressure to keep the cup seal closed) - Siphon tank attached = Result: big, big, BIG CO2 cloud, big increase in velocity. Frost was noted on the Action/Power Unit, Regulator, and Adapter Body. Vel adjust was then adjusted, cut the cloud down to size and returned to 300 fps. No problems. Siphon it if you wish, for superior winter performance. (major gas hog in this configuration however) *=* ================================= BOLT DESIGNS AND RANGE/ACCURACY ================================= Many people have heard the P.R. about the Vector being very accurate and long ranged, and assume that it must be a closed-bolt design. (closed- bolt means that the gun's chamber is closed with the ball loaded _before_ you pull the trigger) The Vector is actually open-bolt. In addition, the bolt does not even have an o-ring on it to seal the chamber. When I discussed this with AP, I was told that the Vector's original design called for a closed-bolt system to help save gas. ('93 Vectors were total gashogs) AP found that by removing the o-ring, the Vector's gas efficiency dropped only slightly, but the rate of fire was increased by at least one shot per second. This was due to the pneumatics not having to pull the bolt out of the barrel and getting dragged down by the o-ring's friction with the barrel. I have heard several people argue that a closed-bolt design introduces less ball-deformation and turbulance during firing, and that this deformation and turbulance are responsible for decreased accuracy and range. No proof of either of these claims has been offered, and I remain skeptical. ================ AIR POWER TOYS ================ - shorter barrel: 8" effective, 5" less than stock. cost $75 - NRG: Non-Restricted Gravity barrel, feed port is on TOP, comes with optional side mount site rail, rate of fire tested at 8-10 shots per second. Site rail mounts on barrel, upward at 45 degrees, right or left side. (tapped for both) cost $75 additional $20 for site rail install *=* - parts kit: Includes at least 1 of every seal, O-ring, and screw (see below) cost $35. - Nitro system: AP now makes a variety of equipment for Nitro, including tank, regulator, grip mount, (bottom line nitro) and other various toys. Check out a catalog for the latest info. *=* - VR3500: mainly designed for use in their nitro system, the vr3500 is a in-line adjustable regulator with gauge, that screws into the air port of the vector, with female threads on the other end. It will regulate output pressure from 0-1500psi, accepting up to 3500psi input. This is an excellent way to adjust velocity, better than using the Vector's built-in adjustment. *=* - AP has a kit for the safety that changes it from a lever to a push- button. $25 *=* ============================ OTHER AFTERMARKET PRODUCTS ============================ - J&J: thread your stock barrel and include one of their hardchrome rifled barrels, all for $95 (this is reportedly low quality work, and is not as accurate as stock barrel) - BoA offers two custom barrels - standard barrel, and "conceiler" barrel that comes with custom 5" silencer - neither has the "NRG" design - options include brass/chrome, color anodizing, muzzle brake - both are the same 15" as the stock Vector barrel - base price is $65, plus extras, and if you get all the goodies, it's about $135. - barrels DO NOT include the front mount or the detent; you must remove them from your stock barrel and place them on the BoA. (holes and such are pre-machined though) - accuracy is reported as equal with stock, but obviously the conceiler has its added value if quiet is your thing - feed port is enlarged to better than 2", which may help increase feed speed (and get the hopper well out of the way of a nice big site) - This barrel does not have quite the "professional" look to it, but reportedly delivers the goods. - call BoA at (216) 878-6309 for details. - Hardwood Maple grips are being made to order by a private individual. (they also include a bottom line bracket) Contact Dave Lavictoire at 'dlavicto@chat.carleton.ca' for information. - Smart Parts now offers a barrel for the Vector. They do about the same thing as J&J does, by taking an existing barrel, chopping off the end, and putting their own type of barrel on the end. This barrel is reported to quiet the Vector about 25% and to be even more accurate than the stock barrel. ======================== AFTERMARKET REGULATORS ======================== Adding an external regulator can make velocity adjustment easier, and also improve velocity stability. Vectors require far less pressure than most markers though - 850psi is where you'd set one for a 'mag, bug the Vector is looking for 450-600psi. *=* ======= PAINT ======= The Vectors were designed and tested using ProBall. All Vectors come with a ball detent built into the barrel. Replacement barrels may not come with ball detents - check when ordering. RP seems to work well in Vectors. *=* ============================== ANTI-PINCH FEATURE EXPLAINED ============================== Many people want to know more about the anti-pinch feature, so here is how it works: You're firing away and a deformed ball drops down your elbown and halfway into the chamber and stops. When you pull the trigger, the bolt moves forward, powered by a 100psi burst from the 4-way. About 95% of the time the bolt will stop before breaking/ slicing the ball. The gun will not fire, and will appear to be completely out of CO2. With your index finger, just flip on the safety (a lever right above and forward of the trigger, on the side of the gun) and you'll hear a slight whoosh as the gun recocks and resets. Flip down the safety (off) and fire again. When the gun recocked, the ball should have fallen into the chamber. This resetting procedure takes about 1/2 second if you know what you are doing. I have experienced some gator balls so badly deformed that they actually got jammed in the port, and kept tripping the anti- pinch. To clear this nasty jam, you've got to pull off the hopper and push the ball into the chamber. On an average day with average paint and high rate of fire, expect to reset your Vector 4-5 times. Don't think of it as four resets; think of it as zero ball chop, 100% accuracy, and no squeegee. Oddly enough, this was not a design goal, but rather came as a side effect when they dropped the regulated pressure to 100psi. AP has never marketed the 'anti-pinch' feature, even though it has really gotten around. Some Autococker mods lower the regulated pressure down near that of the Vector, and with the proper bolt, they too can have this anti-pinch feature. The safety has been re-designed in the '95 Vectors. You now have a "push-button" safety that must be pressed in and rotated to put on safe. The good part is that when the Vector trips its "anti-pinch", all you have to do is depress the safety with your finger, and it's reset. ===================== VELOCITY ADJUSTMENT ===================== The Vector limits its velocity by varying the distance the cup seal can move from the valve seat, which effects how long the valve stays open. Adustment is done by removing the tank, (bummer) and turning a set screw in the adapter body with an allen wrench. The manual states you have 6-8 turns to work with. (this depends on the valve spring you are using) Velocity can be adjusted anywhere from 0 (the valve does not open) through maximum. (determined by valve and main springs, typically ~500fps) To set the Vector at maximum velocity it is not necessary to back the screw all the way out. Back the screw out until it is flush with the adapter body. Now slowly twist it in until you feel a slight resistance. (it will be several turns) When you feel this resistance, you have just hit the piston. Turning further will push the piston forward and compress the valve spring. When the valve spring is fully compressed, the pin can barely move, and the cup will not put any air in your barrel. This adjustment in no way affects the air going to the regulator and its 100 psi for the action. This in effect changes the spring size in your valve. Note when installing a regulator, you need to fully open the valve system. Remove the set screw and the piston, and put them in a bag with some oil in case you need them later. Failure to remove these items will result in a maximum velocity below 300 fps. This procedure is not covered in your regulator booklet/manual unless you bought a VR3500. It may also be necessary to replace the hammer and valve springs, available in the parts kit or by order from AP. ($2.00, but included free with VR3500) *=* ================= Thruster/VR3500 ================= The VR3500 is the newest model of regulator from AP, formerly known as a Thruster. *=* All Thrusters are shipped complete with a manual and a special valve and main spring. If you cannot get the velocity set to 300 fps, check: (a) piston or adjustment screw not removed from valve (b) valve spring not changed (c) main spring not changed (d) incorrect internal assembly of VR3500. Internal washers should alternate like ()()(), not like ((((((, with the flat washer nearest the outside. (e) adjustment nut tightened too far, washer(s) may be damaged (full range of adjustment may be as little as one complete turn) Velocity range is reported to be 0-320 fps. Adjustment of springs may be necessary to get higher velocity. (when you change valve spring) In case you bought someone else's regulator instead of a VR3500, VR3500 Manual Instructions -------------------------- Remove the main spring from your Vector; refer to the General Maintenance and Cleaning Disassembly section of you owners manual, replace with the Thruster main spring. Step 1: Unscrew the seat from the adapter body. Warning: do not scar adapter body. Scratches can cause irreparable damage. Always hold seat with a tool, not the adapter body to prevent damage. Step 2: Remove the shaft form seat. Step 3: Remove the spring from adapter body. Step 4: Remove the velocity piston. Step 5: Remove adjuster screw. The piston, adjuster screw, and return spring can be stored for future use should you desire to shoot the Vector on siphon without the Thruster. Step 6: Install the Thruster valve shaft return spring. Step 7: Install valve shaft into seat. Step 8: Lubricate o-rings and interior of adapter body. Screw valve seat into adapter body. NOTE: be carful not to slice o-rings when assembling. Step 9: Inspect o-rings for damage. Adapter body is now ready for insertion into Vector. ========= BARRELS ========= The stock barrel for the Vector is reported to be the most accurate produced so far. BoA makes a ported barrel that has about equal accuracy, with a good silencing action. J&J makes a lower quality barrel. Stock barrel's rate of fire is 7-8 shots per second. This barrel has neither ports nor a brake; just a wildly polished tube. The NRG barrel has the port moved to the top for increased rate of feed. This required the raised site rail to be removed. Rate of fire is tested at 8-10 shots per second, depending on whose finger is on the trigger. Better get a Shredder, too. The NRG barrel can be tapped and the site rail actually moved ONTO the barrel itself at about 45 degrees from vertical. You pick the side. ($20 extra) *=* AP also offers a shorter barrel, which lowers the effective length from 13" to 8", and reduces the overhang of the barrel from 6" to 1". Reduced accuracy is expected, but not confirmed. It is neither ported nor braked. All AP barrels (regular, NRG, short) cost $75. ============= SPARE PARTS ============= This is the stated price for all parts shown in the breakdown in the manual. Barrel (any) $ 75 Site Base $ 20 HP Line $ 25 Barrel Mount $ 45 Adapter Pin $ 4 HP Line Cover $ 20 Drive Pin $ 4 Bolt Head Slider $ 20 Action Power Unit $200 Hammer $ 25 Receiver ** CALL Valve Seat ** $ 30 Valve Shaft $ 20 Return Spring $ 2 Velocity Piston $ 5 Adapter Body ** $ 40 4-Way Valve $100 Valve Arm ** $ 20 Trigger Sear $ 20 Trigger Assembly $ 30 Side Cover ** $ 30 ForeGrip $ 27 Pistol Grip $ 25 Parts Kit $ 40 ** Notes: - the "Return Spring" is the valve spring - Valve Seat must be matched to Adapter Body - Side Cover must be matched to Receiver - Valve arm must be matched to 4-way and trigger sear - Action Power Unit includes the regulator, ram, main spring, and hammer - prices rounded up to nearest dollar - total cost (without receiver) is $827, spare parts are marked up about 50% from total cost of gun (reciever not included in total) - parts are going to be cheaper than listed when you actually order them, the cost has gone down since the manual was printed. *=* =========== PARTS KIT =========== These items are included in the parts kit, $35 + $10 (for COD) ship from AP: O-rings (black rubber) screws ----------------------- -------------------------------------------- 1: 6.5 x 2 OD x width 1: 2.5 x 3.0 coarse thread length x width 2: 7.5 x 2 (in mm) 4: 4.5 x 3.0 course (in mm) 1: 8.0 x 2 (+/- .3mm) 2: 6.0 x 3.5 fine (+/- .5mm) 2: 11.5 x 2 2: 9.0 x 3.5 fine 2: 18.0 x 2 2: 15.5 x 3.5 fine 1: 20.0 x 1 <-- adapter body 2: 19.0 x 3.0 coarse 1: 24.0 x 2 springs wrenches washer (firing) ----------------------------- --------------------- ------------------ 1: 15 x 5.5 x 0.8 (height x 1: 1.5 short (in mm) 1: 13 x 8 x 1.25 1: 19 x 8.7 x 1.0 turns x 1: 2.0 long (OD x ID x width) 1: 45 x 11.0 x 1.4 wire OD 1: 2.5 long (in mm) 1: 52 x 10.7 x 1.2 in mm) 1: 3.0 short (clear teflon?) other *=* --------------------------- * valve shaft & cup seal * detent spring * 4-way cap * drive slider (bolt) pin All this comes in a very nice yellow parts case, with pleanty of room for any other tools or extras you might want to throw in. I suggest requesting several additional adapter body o-rings with your kit. Unfortunately, AP has decided not to include the parts kit with new Vectors. Notably Missing: - trigger and trigger sear springs (watch the trigger sear spring when disassembling - it can throw the spring pin across the room) - trigger spring pin (the little post one of the springs fits into) - barrel release spring AP: "Only items prone to breakage or loss are included in the parts kit." ============================= COMMON PROBLEMS AND ANSWERS ============================= - Trigger pulls but gun doesnt fire: a) reset safety b) check sear spring - Air leaks near where adapter body meets block a) bad adapter body O-ring b) check inside of block where adapter body slides in, look for burrs on the screw holes which are tapped in for the HP line block (on the outside) *=* - Adapter body O-rings getting chopped frequently a) oil them before inserting adapter body b) allow the gun to "cool down" for about 30 minutes before removing the adapter body (to let the o-rings "relax") c) why are you removing the adapter body? - Air leaks from right of "Vector" nameplate a) high pressure line o-ring not seated properly b) HP line's seal with its plate is bad - free repair, but superglue or (preferrably) rubber cement works. Verify the line is positioned correctly before gluing. (mine had this problem, superglue has held it for three years so far) - Air leaks out the barrel a) bad cup seal b) dirt on cup seal - clean and oil lightly c) cup seal not seated properly - fire several shots d) cup seal is frozen. This can happen if you rapid fire several HUNDRED shots in a row, or if you run non-siphon in very cold weather and your tank gets seriously chilled or frozen. The seal must be allowed to warm up. (DO NOT remove adapter body at this time, you will destroy both adapter body o-rings if you pull it before letting them relax) - Low accuracy, hooking and slicing a) check barrel for paint b) check and clean paint from bolt c) check hopper for broken balls, dump, clean, and reload if necessary - Low velocity after installing an inline regulator a) remove piston and set screw (see Thruster above) - Barrel seems to wobble a bit (rotate, not shift side to side) a) barrel is designed to float. This is not a problem. - Air leaks from/near where high pressure line and regulator meet a) o-rings in regulator dry - pull the HP line, oil, and re-attach b) o-ring inside regulator dry/bad. Remove regulator, unscrew aluminum fitting, check o-ring at end of fitting. Also oil the series of smaller o-rings and washers inside. c) excessive oil on o-rings on inlet. You have to keep them oiled, but too much oil will make it leak. There should be noticable friction when you slide the regulator onto the HP line, and you should be able to feel when each of the two o-rings is met by the line. - Small air leak comming from 4-way a) 4-way is designed to vent a tad while gassed up, this is normal b) 4-way should vent 1/8-1/4 oz per hour. If you feel it is venting more than that, weigh a tank, attach it for an hour, and weigh again. if leaking more than 1/4oz, see above for 4-way "moving", or try disassembling and cleaning *=* c) 4-way black cap cracked or loose. Replace if necessary. *=* (use care when tightening screws, or you may crack corners) - Vector fires but bolt does not return (open) or opens slowly; 4-way may hiss excessively a) 4-way "moved". Loosen both bolts holding 4-way, hold 4-way toward the trigger, and re-tighten screws. Use a large mount of force when holding the 4-way against the trigger assembly, and tighten both screws VERY tight. They are tapped into almost one inch of aluminum for this very reason. If the 4-way is a PAPER'S WIDTH from its correct place, the above problem will result. - Vector leaks air down the barrel and not running remote; if not running siphon, pointing Vector upward and firing stops the leak a) the cup seal is getting old. Liquid in the system will sneak around a worn cup seal. Cup seals should be replaced every 1-2 years. - Drop in velocity, inconsistent firing under rapid fire, chambers a ball but does not fire it) and failure to fire at all. (progressive) a) hammer is corroded and sticking to bolt carrier's forward tube. Remove hammer, wrap fine sandpaper around eraser end of pencil and sand inside diameter of hammer slightly to remove corrosion. This is a precision fit. *=* - Bolt Carrier/Hammer stick or move slowly forward once latched together a) check for 4-way having "moved" b) there seems to be a design flaw in that the hammer, once locked to the bolt carrier will tend to bend in relation to the bolt carrier. This is normal for most guns, but the Vector's "mechanism tube" is at least one mm larger than the diameter of the hammer, and allows the hammer to turn and dig into the mech tube after it has worn a bit. Oil liberally to maintain ease of movement. *=* ======================== SUGGESTED IMPROVEMENTS ======================== Some Vector owners would like a modification that would... - make the anti-chop feature able to be shut off if wanted - if you don't like it... sharpen the edges of the bolt! (buy a spare; they're cheap and can be changed by hand) You can also put a shim in the regluator to increase the pressure to the 4-way. *=* - make the trigger flip the safety instead of firing if it's tripped - AP, "this cannot be done" - make the safety on the other side for 'lefties' - AP, "not cost-effective, not enough lefties" - offer a lightened/milled out block (possibly top on the "wish list") - AP claims most of the weight is in the action, and does not plan to offer this. It seems to me that most of the weight of the gun is in the block and the barrel. (the barrel is 1/8" thick) - make teflon o-rings for the valve body - AP is the ONLY source of the regular rubber o-rings, but is considering making a composition change. Until then, users are advised to remove the adapter body only when necessary. *** ideas below have been done by individuals, with positive results *** - mill out the adapter body more and use a larger, sturdier, more easily obtainable pair of o-rings - AP has no plans to do this - one owner (with great trust in his machinist) had his adapter body lathed a bit to make room for larger teflon o-rings, and reports great success. I would expect the valve body's maximum pressure rating to have been lowered below the 1800psi set by AP, which may not be wise. Since the pin holds the back end in, no injuries would result, but it might still ruin your hot summer day. - replace the fragile adapter body o-rings with common 18 x 1 (mm) o-rings. One Vector owner reports great success with these commonly available o-rings, but says you'll have to stretch them a bit... - round out the catch on the trigger arm to make the trigger pull smooth instead of snappy (but still keep its 1/16" pull) NOTE: '93 Vectors had a tendency to wear down the trigger arm and make this happen for awhile (until at last it wore too much) CAUTION: I have done this to my Vector. The amount of metal to remove from the edge of the trigger arm is indescribably small. If you over- do it, you can make it catch again by taking another incredibly small amound off the underside of the lip on the trigger sear, where it catches the valve arm. I heavily suggest ordering a spare trigger assembly (or just trigger arm) before attempting this. *=* - The part of the trigger that is under the cover plate has a hole running from front to back, and is tapped with threads, and is not being used. Find one or two bolts that will fit that thread, (easier said than done) and tap them in, and cut off th heads at about the right spot to restrict the movement of the trigger. Due to the already very short trigger pull, the trange of adjustment will be about TWO TURNS from "doesn't fire" through "isn't touching". With this and the above modification, the Vector's trigger pull can be cut IN HALF. Can you say "hair trigger"? *=* ============= MAINTENANCE ============= Here are the things I do when returning from the field: - remove and clean barrel, bolt, and bolt pin - dab the bottom of the bolt slider with a little white lithium grease - put it all back in - wipe off any paint on the outside - put a drop of oil on all exposed screws "Twice yearly" maintenance: (AP: "every 3-4 cases") *=* - remove, check, and oil all three (2 sm, 1 lg) o-rings inside regulator's aluminum fitting - oil all trigger parts - remove action/power unit. Clean and oil. NO grease. Thoroughly clean out hammer where ram's tube goes in. - remove adapter body and open valve. Check/oil cup seal and both o-rings. Oil piston (if still there, removed if you have a regulator) NOTE: have a pair of AB o-rings on hand, replace 'em - check all low pressure hoses, make sure they have not slipped off a bit - tighten pommel (grip) screws The 4-way and low pressure regulator can be disassembled for service or cleaning also. The end of the regulator unscrews to reveal a rubber o-ring and something like a teflon cup seal. Clean them carefully. Remove any metallic chips from the cup seal. The seal can be rejouvenated by slow gentle heat from a heat gun or hot air torch. The shaft WILL come out of the cap, just rock it a bit. You'll find an o-ring around the end when you remove it. Clean the inside of the cap too. Keeping this clean and lubed will insure you get a reliable 100psi source to the 4-way. *=* If you feel like taking apart the 4-way, go ahead, it's not difficult. There is only one spring, and it won't try to fly across the room. Be very gentle with the gasket that is between the body and the aluminum block of the 4-way. Also do not use anything heavier than sewing machine oil on the inside of it. The piston that moves inside is a VERY precision item and should be handled with care. The 4-way does not use o-rings or cup seals to switch the air - it uses the sheer tolerance of the piston in the tube (plus that little bit of oil) to maintain a fairly air-tight fit. CAREFULLY remove the gasket from the aluminum block, (it will probably be stuck to it) and clean the block. lightly oil the gasket and place on the the body and reassemble. Be sure the gasket is in place before placing and tightening the aluminum block on. *=* You may want to remove the adapter body (valve) well-after using the Vector. If you don't give it a good 15 minutes of "cool down" time after removing the CA, you increase the risk of damaging the adapter body o-ring on removal of the adapter body. When removing, gently twist while you pull, and oil well before re-insterting. The same rule applies to the smaller black o-ring inside the valve. When removing it, watch through the port hole to make sure the o-ring is not slacking up into the hole and trying to get chopped. The adapter body o-rings usually get chopped by this same phenomina, by getting caught in the hole that feeds to the high pressure line plate. *=* =================== BEHIND THE SCENES =================== Things start with the Vector cocked: - hammer is locked onto ram by hammer sear, power spring compressed - hammer/bolt carrier are back (next to valve) - bolt is open (above bolt carrier) - trigger sear is holding valve arm - valve arm is holding 4-way closed (pin in) *=* Here is what happens when you pull the trigger: *=* A trigger is pulled B trigger arm presses past trigger sear C trigger sear pivots, releases valve arm (safety holds valve arm if on) D trigger arm is now past the trigger sear (the sear can now lock the valve arm again as soon as it returns to the closed position) E valve arm pivots, 4-way opens (pin out) F 4-way stops pushing on bolt carrier, now pulls bolt carrier, hammer, and bolt forward G if the bolt hits a ball 1/2 way into the chamber or other obstruction, it will press on it, powered by 100psi from the 4-way to the pneumatic cylinder. The Vetor will appear "jammed". This is the anti-chop feature at work. If the user flips the safety, go to step L (skipping N) H bolt pushes ball into barrel I hammer sear reaches sear roller, and the roller pivots the hammer sear J hammer releases from the bolt carrier, powered by main spring K hammer streaks toward the valve, bolt carrier is pushed into the valve arm L valve arm pivots, closing 4-way (pin in) M trigger sear locks onto valve arm N hammer hits valve. A very short, high volume air charge released from valve, travels up the barrel mount and fires the ball O with the 4-way having been closed, the bolt carrier heads toward the hammer and valve, compresses main spring and catches on hammer sear P user releases trigger Q trigger arm slides up and locks above trigger sear Vector is now recocked and ready to fire again If a ball stops the bolt from moving forward, the action stops. The 4-way is still open, therefore the Action Power Unit is still pulling the bolt carrier, bolt, and hammer forward. Leaving the Vector in this state for long could eventually pinch the ball in half. (and fire the gun) Flipping the safety pivots the valve arm, which normally happens after the hammer sear has been released. This causes the 4-way to close, pushing the bolt, bolt carrier, and hammer back. The bolt opens, and allows the ball to fall into the chamber. The only thing left is for the user to let off the trigger (for the trigger sear to re-catch) and to flip off the safety. *=* If the trigger is pulled with the safety on, the valve arm will not pivot, and the gun will remain in its cocked state. There is very little difference in the "feel" of the trigger pull of a Vector on safety or not. One of the reasons for the high rate of fire is that the gun does not have to wait for the user to release the trigger to complete recocking. The Vector relies on its own internal timing to complete the firing cycle as fast as possible. It's impossible to "short-stroke" a Vector. It is quite possible to pull the trigger faster than the BALLS can fall into the chamber. (NRG barrels make this a lot more difficult to do) If you do pull faster than they fall, you'll just trip the anti-pinch more than usual. ============================================================================= .,------------ .;" /----!"""!-' ; !_____! !__________________________________________________ ,:"+---+ ':;:' ! .:"!______!---------------,------------------------,___________________! " ! ! ! ';_! ! ! "":--+ __o ! __:' ) !_________________!_____________-----"" ./ / ! ! !! .; / \_( .!! , /;;,,,,,,,!' / / `""""""" ( / ':,. / ":,/ ============================================================================= ------------,. '-.---.----\ ";. __________________________________________________!___!_____! ; ! -=----* m + m==":, !___________________,------------------------,---------------!______!":. ! !,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ! " ! ! \/ector : !_;' ':__ !'''''''''''''''''+--:"" ""-----_____________!_________________! ( !! ! ! \ \. !!. )_/ \ ;. '!,,,,,,,;!\ , """""""' \ \ \ ) \ .,:' \,:" ============================================================================= Physical Specs: weight: 3 1/3 lbs length: 18 1/4" (15" w/o barrel) height: 8" width: 2 1/2" color: jet black (anodized aluminum) barrel: length, total 15 1/2" \_this is for the "long" (standard) barrel length, effective 13" / 1/8" thick wall (you'll never bend or dent it) VERY well honed internally anodized aluminum not rifled not braked not ported Construction ------------ plastic: handgrip, foregrip anodized aluminum: barrel, body, sight rail, CA adapter, cover plates, trigger, power tube, body, valve body untreated aluminum: hammer (with steel striker imbedded) steel: action, pins/screws, valve mech, hammer striker, sear heat-treated TOOL steel: all internal trigger parts (apparently they aren't "tough as nails" -- they're tough as HAMMERS) =============== WHY TO BUY... =============== another semi over a Vector: - quieter - lighter - smaller - more aftermarket stuff available - balances better with a bottom line - can turn off the ball feed - costs $50-150 less (without mods and toys!) *=* - don't play in weather below 60 degrees A Vector over another semi: - no short-stroking - no freeze-ups - stock barrel is already extremely accurate - no foamies! - easier cleaning - balance is perfect with a '20 on the back - no breakdowns - no shoot-downs - still works in November, December, and January - no chops - no high pressure seals (except the cup seal of course) - cycles faster than any motorized loader can drop balls - has no need for expansion chambers - can run siphon for exceptional velocity stability in all seasons ================= THE BIG PICTURE ================= Out of the box it's big, heavy, fast, loud, accurate, reliable, and complete. Please let me know if I've missed anything here - I'm always trying to improve and keep this FAQ current! The information in this FAQ was assembled from the author's personal experience, information from other Vector owners, and from Air Power. ====================== CONTACTING AIR POWER ====================== Nick Lotuaco, President Michael Power, Air Power 509 Viking Drive Suite E Virginia Beach VA 23452 Orders: 1-757-485-7900 *=* new area code AND new number! Fax: 1-757- ============================================================================= [file end]