2024.06.01 N0ZYC portable solar presentation notes

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOME SOLAR AND PORTABLE SOLAR:
- home solar
	- focuses on the value for the cost - watts-per-dollar
	- limited by your options for mounting on or near your house
- portable solar
	- focuses on portability
	- light-weight, small, easily transported and set up
	- flexibility with placement of panels, connecting to other batteries and radios or other loads
	- may not be as interested in how much power it produces, focus instead on value for
      portability
- portable power has many uses
	- not just Field day - also camping, hiking, sailing


SELECTING PANELS:
- solar wallets are avaiable in a wide variety of sizes and power ratings
	- convenient, but are expensive and can be a poor value for power produced
	- not all of them have panel-out connections, try to get one with panel-out
	- can use a smaller solar controller
	- good for charging phones and especially USB power banks, for "solar-shifting"
	- may not need a battery beyond your power bank, a few wallets include a power bank
	- all have USB, but may be low power out - many have USB-C, and some of them are fast-charge
	- very small panels are virtually worthless
	- may only output 5v on the panel out, which is challenging to work with
- flexible solar panels
	- good value in power for the money
	- very lightweight, but large and floppy - you may need to find or make a portable frame
	- wind is a problem with large, lightweight panels
	- bare panels will require a controller and 12v battery
	- typical flexible panel is 36 cells, 100 watts (rated), 75 watts (actual)
- panels are often over-rated on power
	- if it looks too good to be true, it definitely is
	- not unusual to see panels marked at 200-400% of their actual output


SELECTING CONTROLLER:
- small wallets with USB only won't need a controller
	- will need to get a small controller if they have a panel-out you want to use for 12v charging
- make sure your controller can handle your panel voltage - know how to combine panels


SELECTING BATTERY:
- LiFePO4 (lithium) batteries are 1/3 the weight, making them excellent for portable power
	- also 3x the price, and slightly larger than lead acid
	- lithium batteries require a compatible controller
	- you won't be able to tie directly to other people's lead-acid batteries if you're using lithium
- deep-cycle marine batteries are available at Menards for around $90 for 85AH
	- you can still kill them by deep-discharging so don't let them get below 10.8v
	- suggest a battery box, can add ports, charger, and other accessories (see NK0T's example)


OTHER ACCESSORIES:
- use PowerPoles for all your connections, so you're compatible with other users
- fuses - don't forget to put an appropriate fuse on your battery and also on your radio
	- pack a spare fuse - I always tape one onto the power wire
- suggest getting a powerpole distribution block of some sort
- have a way to connect to bare wire and battery posts, for users without powerpoles







OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:
- some waterproofing will probably be necessary for your panels if you want it to work when its
  raining
- more panels are useful for more than just more power, it also lets you do better in cloudy
  weather
- think about a method for angling panels, and also securing from wind blowing them over
	- having a method to angle your panels is good, but most angling frames aren't really
	  portable
	- panel output drops by 50% at 45 degrees
- need a transmission line to get your panels away from the shelter and into the sun
	- at events, have a way to mark your wires to limit the trip-hazard
- solar controllers may generate EMI - test them in advance, use filters if needed
	- inverters are EMI-noisy
	- try to reduce or eliminate your reliance on an inverter
	- replace your 120vac accessories with 12vdc for everything you can, including lighting