NIRAA / W0MG Club meeting presentation, July 9, 2016
"Mobile Installation", by Nathan Fisher / N0ZYC

1 - GETTING SOMETHING WORKING:	(or, "what you may be doing now")

- basic power:

	- 12v cigarette lighter plug
	- tapping power from the fuse box
	- tapping into the cigarette lighter or other accessory power wires
	- fuse
	- #14 speaker wire for power wire
	- problems:
		- voltage dropout due to thin gauge wires
		- intermittent power (especially via cig lighter)
		- no power when engine is off
		- battery drain iff radio is left on overnight / over weekend
		- hazards of loose wiring
		- hazards of exposed power wires in proximity to lots of sources of ground
		- alternator and ignition noise
		- poorly marked + / - polarity
		- dummy diodes (use a fuse, never walk up your size)

- basic antenna:

	- rubber duck
	- mag mount out the door jam
	- problems:
		- low range
		- damage to coax
		- damage to weatherseal in door
		- damage to paint (from coax rubbing and mag mount issues)
		- radio transmit knocks out FM radio reception (which may be a good thing actually)
		- connector fatigue from frequent antenna swapping

- basic mounting:

	- HT clipped to the visor
	- mobile sitting on the passenger seat
	- mobile sitting on the dash
	- using built-in speaker
	- mic loose or in the cup holder etc
	- problems:
		- HT falls or shifts visor
		- have to move radio for passengers
		- passengers kick equipment that's on the floorboards
		- mobile sliding off the dash
		- hazards of flying gear in an accident
		- radio on passenger seat is a distraction to operate
		- radio exposed to sun if on the dash
		- looks temptingly east to steal by passers-by

2 - IMPROVING POWER:

	- powerpole connectors (ARES standards)
	- power wire straight from battery (cleaner power)
	- heavier gauge wire to battery (#10 or bigger) - visit local stereo installers for
	   larger wire and fuses
	- importance of (larger?) fuse AT battery
	- running power through the firewall and under the hood
		- clutch plate cover
		- other wiring harnesses
		- look for plugs under the frame that lead to hidden access under the carpet in the cab
		- when all else fails, drill (CAREFUL of what's on the other side, heater cores are notorious victims)
		- protect cables as they run through the firewall and around moving or hot things under the hood
		- battery connection requires large eyelets and may need to replace bolts on the battery clamps with longer
		- tie down cables with wire ties
		- use adequate grommet when running large gauge power wires through holes in firewall or chassis
	- power distribution inside the cab (rigrunner etc)
	- running longer runs to the back of the vehicle:
		- heavier gauge wire may be required
		- routing power cables around passenger areas / under carpeting
	- dash mounted power connections
	- master power switch
	- may find you hvae to add or replace ground straps
	- run a ground wire from the battery as well as a hot wire
	- chargeguard or other auto off
		- relay from accessory power to kill battery power?
		- custom and homemade delay switches
	- beware:
		- wires direct from battery have many more shorting risks, a fiuse is essential to protect from fire
		- periodically inspect power lines for wear or damage

3 - IMPROVING ANTENNA:

	- improved grounding from hard mounts vs mag mounts
	- external antenna even for an HT:
		- much better repeater access
		- don't have to mount/hold it funky to get in
		- use an adapter on the antenna coax even if it has the right end so it takes the wear
		- leaning out the window isn't practical while driving or when it's raining
	- NMO:
		- on roof OR up through front fender on left or right side
		- punches available, much cleaner.  beware conduit punches marked 3/4", that's ID not OD
	- options other than mag or hole drilling
		- luggage rack clamps and mounts
		- rear (or front!) bumper mounts, rear especially good for larger HF sticks 		- used car price NOT affected by a hole in the roof, easier for them to repair than a faded mag mark
	- running coax:
		- dropping head liner
		- coat hangers, fishing lines
		- removing end or installing end after pulling cable
	- placement of multiple antennas so they don't interact
	- checking SWR, moving atennas to where they work better
	- radiation pattern varies depending on antenna location
	- often better range
	- beware:
		- tall antennas often disagree with garages or parking garages (NMO can be removed like mag)
		- inspect yearly for rust, take things apart and clean up / redo weatherproofing if needed
		- antennas have a limited lifespan, expect to replace them every 5-7 yrs

4 - IMPROVING MOUNTING:

	- bolt or bracket it down on top of the dash
	- install radio where the car stereo was
	- face plates for radios can be much easier to install.  sometimes you can swap the face plates (I did)
	- install radio vertically, bracket or bolt to the driver or passenger side of the center console
	- install custom radio tree/bracket for multiple accessories
	- mounting radios out of easy sight from "window shoppers" can reduce the chances of theft
	- mic clip for the dash
	- longer mic cord, maybe one with no springy coil

	- beware:
		- don't blindly drill into the dash, center console, or transmission hump, this can get VERY expensive
		- flashy high end radios may warrant a car alarm if you don't already have one
		- make sure your mounting does not interfere with your vision for driving
		- try to instlal radios so they require minimal attention loss to operate while driving
		- if you can't operate safely in a given circumstance, pull over or wait for a safer opportunity

5 - ADDITIONAL INSTALLATIONS:

	- USB charge power
		- watch out for cheap cig to usb adapters, most are very low quality
	- 120VAC inverters
		- great sources of radio noise
	- APRS

6 - CARRY WITH YOU:
	- this list does NOT cover basic vehicle supplies like flashlight, antifreeze, jumper cables, fire extinguisher, etc
	- soldering iron, solder, needlenose pliers with wire cuters, small spool of solid #18 wire
	- several spare fuses for every fuse you use (including those for the native vehicle fuses)
	- spare hand mic
	- AA powered USB battery bank WITH BATTERIES NOT INSTALLED
	- spare charging cable for your HT, even if not normally used in your vehicle
	- basic tools (crescent wrench, pliers, flat and phillips screwdrivers
	- chart of radio programming with local repeaters etc, in case your radio decies to reset its memories
	- basic radio manual if you can spare it, so you can (re)program it if needed
	- cheap (<$20) multimeter
	- small cigarette lighter to powerpole adapter (if you have a mag mount)